HannahJean: Biking Machine: It's Cajun Country!

So when we left off last we were in the somewhat crummy town of Clute, TX, (home to many Dow chemical plants) and waiting out somewhat crummy weather. That said, we also knew that waiting around really wasn't much of an option so we bundled up and put our heads into the wind. The joy of this stretch was arriving at The Gulf! Yes, we finally made it to a real body of water! One might be tempted to dip their tire in here and call it quits, but we still had too much Cajun food to look forward to so we shimmied up the coast to Galveston. Galveston wasn't originally on our route (and was actually a 100 mile detour), but we had some Warmshowers hosts that spoke so highly of it that we just had to check it out. If the weather wasn't as windy/foggy/cool as it was, I'm sure we both would have been temped to stay longer, but it was at least nice to get to a touristy beach town, walk around, see the old southern architecture, and really feel like we were hitting the coastal South.

Leaving Galveston was enjoyable because the only way to escape northward is to take the free 20 minute ferry to Bolivar peninsula, a 40 mile stretch of marsh, beach and fog...soooooo much fog! Cycling this can put you to sleep. Luckily fog usually equals warmth so by noon I was heading inland and quickly stripping my wet outer layers for a t-shirt. I don't think my arms have seen sun since San Antonio. We were additionally thankful for the warmer weather because not only was it my birthday (and all birthdays deserve decent weather), but because it was also the day I had 4 flat tires and we both got stuck in clay mud. The flat tires all really boiled down to one problem in the end which was a sliver of metal stuck in the tube protector strip. Regardless, we got lots of tire changing practice! The clay-mud, on the other hand, was just a roadside fluke from farm tractors, but because there was so much of it we both were left cleaning globs of clay out of our wheels, wheel wells, brakes, and shoes for at least 20 minutes....We were a Hot Mess. Flat tire #4 was just a few miles from our destination in Port Arthur, but being now out of tubes and having the patches not hold, we were grateful for some southern hospitality in a red pickup!

Much like Clute, Port Arthur didn't hold much in the way of charm or safe cycling roads so we were glad to be out of there the next day and into some prettier countryside. Because we are no longer directly following our Adventure Cycling maps, we count on Google to show us the way. This is all well and good until I either choose not to follow it (chancing a shortcut on a bigger road) OR it takes us down gravel dirt roads....both have happened lately. I am quickly learning my lesson about not taking shortcuts as this caused me to have to catch a ride from our host over a huge, scary bridge. As for the dirt roads, well, I'm just learning to power through.

We stayed the next night in Lake Charles, LA (we made it out of Texas!) with two very cool international teachers; one from Spain and the other from France. Both are here on a special teaching program that connects international teachers with schools in the U.S. Overall, both were pretty discouraged by the LA education system and were struggling to find community in their town, but had made friends other places and spent most weekends away in NOLA or traveling....I get it. It was sad to hear about their experience here, but not unsurprising.

The next day was a zig-zaggy ride through fog, cows and crawfish farms. The crawfish farms reminded me a lot of cranberry bogs. Dot caught up to me around the time that I met another cyclist who was just out of college, a bit overpacked, but was having more of a zen-riding and solo camping experience. I guess we all have our own paths! I, for one, was grateful to make it to our hosts in Lafayette that night and have a warm shower, fish curry and chocolate pie! These folks are amazing. Becky and John run an outdoor gear store and have adventured in ways many of us only dream of. Best yet, some of their biggest trips were with their son when he was just three years old. They have really built their business up to connect to the community here and seem to be best pals with almost everyone, including a guy who Dot met at a Tiny House convention in Boston. Small world! We also met their friends who are currently traveling around in an Airstream trailer taking pictures for a book about people across America. Not only were they also an awesome couple to connect with, but Jason(photographer) did me a bigger favor and drove me to Baton Rouge today so that I could avoid some very dangerous roads and get one day ahead of really icky weather.

Yesterday I was in Baton Rouge staying with the parents of a college friend and loving just sitting around in a skirt and not moving fast. Dot, on the other hand, had to quickly scoot down to New Orleans because if she were follow me and wait until Thursday to do the trek she might freeze to death. Even though it was sunny and 70 yesterday, today is barely 40 with rain and wind gusts...not cycling weather. Today I will also forego the bike ride catch a ride to New Orleans to meet up with Dot. We will then hit the road again on Friday. Even though I know this trip is about more than clocking the miles, it's hard not to feel just a bit guilty when I miss a day of riding for a car ride....I guess I need a little inner zen....and a cookie. :)

We we now officially four states down and have four to go. We're pushing for a St Patrick's day arrival in St. Augustine, but also know that we can sometimes only travel as fast as Mother Nature allows. Our next segment includes Gulfport and Biloxi, MS which I am very excited to see since they were both my old stomping grounds during the post-Katrina cleanup/rebuilding days and hold some pretty intense and wonderful memories. Regardless, Le Bakery, I'm on my way for a Vietnamese po' boy!